William Fèvre Montmains 2022 – Chablis with both precision and roundness

Malolactic fermentation is normally part of the house’s winemaking. This converts sharper malic acid into softer lactic acid. It can round out the palate without the wine losing its freshness. Chablis does not, then, need to avoid this conversion in order to taste taut. The grapes’ original acid balance and the wine’s other components also play a major role.

Ageing on fine lees adds another dimension. After fermentation, fine yeast sediment remains in the wine and can contribute texture and a subtle bready note as it matures. Fèvre’s premier cru wines generally receive around a year’s ageing or slightly longer, with a combination of barrel and tank. The expectation is not a buttery, oak-driven wine, but a dry chardonnay in which fullness and precision can coexist.

Burgundy’s 2022 vintage was marked by heat and dry spells, but also yielded a considerably more generous harvest than the severely frost-hit 2021. Water availability was important during the summer in Chablis, too. The distribution of rainfall, the soils’ ability to hold water and the development of the vines’ roots all contributed to differences between sites. A regional vintage assessment can therefore never replace an appraisal of the individual bottle.

The vintage has generally been well received for its combination of ripe fruit and surprisingly good balance. “Surprisingly” does need explaining, though: high summer temperatures do not automatically mean that every finished wine tastes heavy or lacks acidity. Harvest timing, yields, site and grape development all influence the final result. Without analytical data for this particular bottling, freshness should be described as a sensory impression, not a measured figure.

For Montmains, 2022 gives reasonable grounds to expect more open fruit than in a truly cool season. At the same time, the site’s customary structural firmness suggests tension and length, not simply soft fruit. This is what makes the wine interesting: the vintage may open the door early, while its origin holds something in reserve. Exact details of the harvest date and yield for this cuvée are best left aside without reliable vintage documentation.

The following tasting portrait is a cautious synthesis of the wine’s origin, producer style and vintage, not a report from a bottle we have tasted ourselves. Expect citrus, apple and pear, with the possibility of yellower fruit and a subtle floral note as the wine gets some air. In the background there may be notes recalling chalk, oyster shell or fresh bread. These words describe associations, not ingredients or evidence of a direct transfer from soil to wine.

On the palate, the emphasis should fall between medium-bodied fruit and clear, cohesive acidity. Montmains usually has a firm mid-palate: the wine feels like more than a quick squeeze of lemon, gaining volume before the finish tightens. Tannins are not a defining feature as they are in red wine, but a light grip from the grapes’ phenolic compounds can lend structure. The dry, sometimes almost saline finish is part of the language of Chablis, without salinity here necessarily meaning a high salt content.

With bottle age, the primary citrus fruit may give way to wax, nuts and more complex bready notes. Good examples should be able to develop for several more years, but ageing potential is no guarantee. Temperature, closure and previous storage all matter greatly. A reasonable strategy is to follow the wine into the early 2030s rather than treating a particular final year as a promise.

Start at around 11–12 °C and let the wine gradually warm in the glass. Straight from a very cold fridge, both fruit and texture can feel compressed. Choose a medium-sized white wine glass with a slightly rounded bowl and a tapered rim. A large Burgundy glass can work, but an enormous bowl is not needed to reveal the nuances.

Ideally, open the bottle about half an hour before serving and taste a small splash. If the aromas are closed, 20–30 minutes in a small decanter may help; if the wine already feels open, the glass is enough. Lengthy decanting is not an end in itself for a white wine whose charm also lies in its freshness.

For food, cod pan-fried in butter with cauliflower and a gently lemony sauce is a fine choice. The fish’s mild flavour leaves room for the wine, while the butter complements its texture. Another option is chicken with mushrooms and a light cream sauce, where the earthy notes connect with the wine’s more restrained side. Keep acidity and salt in balance so that the food does not make the wine seem thin.

Those avoiding alcohol can opt for a dry, alcohol-free sparkling alternative with apple and citrus notes. For Montmains 2022 itself, the advice is simple: pay attention to vintage and storage when buying, serve it without excessive chilling, and give it time in the glass.